I wake to Monica snuggling up to me. She's obviously feeling the cold. Me too. I think about putting on my sweater but the thought of leaving my warm sleeping bag, even for a few seconds, puts me off. Laziness is probably another factor.
We survive and rise around 07:00 in time for some nice post-sunrise photos (my original plan had been to try and capture the dawn but the cold seemed to have created an extra strong gravity field over our tent, preventing my body from rising).
The camera batteries are running out so I put a set in the solar charger (something I should have done yesterday). Lets see if the thing works.
At 9 we set off for another go at whale watching. It's starts off pretty well with a mother and her calf swimming right beneath us. Later a calf emerges head first from the water piggy- backing on its mother - quite spectacular. We also see a pair rising vertically from the water, bellies touching. Can't wait to get to a power source so I can see if we got any pictures!
Later two or three are seen following the same tight circular course - synchronized swimming if you will. The water is only a few meters deep and presumably the whales are feeding. Or playing.
Despite the great sights, we're still not completely satisfied - we want to see them up close! Many of the people in the boats even managed to pat the noses of curious calves. So we arrange another outing in the afternoon with our bus companions from yesterday. Afterwards we'll all return to La Paz on the 23:00 bus. Rattle City here we come.
The final whale watching session turns out to be excellent. A calf plays with our boat for ages - almost tipping our boat over! A number of whales 'spy hop' (rise vertically till mouth and eyes are above the water) nearby. On two occasions a pair dolphins race right alongside our boat. In short, fantastic.
Returning to base at 17:00, we strike camp, settle our account with Kuyima (ouch!), and climb inside the van for bumpy journey across the desert trail. Stops are made enroute to take photos of turquoise salt plains and a firey sunset.